Field Notes from Paradise: Cali to Guate

"Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again;
we had longer ways to go.
But no matter, the road is life."
- Jack Kerouac

I have to apologize for taking a holiday from the blogging. There’s much to say about the past few weeks, so I’ll try to catch us all up as best I can.

First and foremost, my wonderful parents made the trip down to Guatemala for a visit and we had a blast for two weeks of gallivanting around the country. We started with a short flight from the capital up to the department of Peten, host to Tikal National Park, and the largest Mayan ruins discovered to date.

Tikal was incredible, as much for its lack of people and amusement park-like accoutrement as for its historical and cultural impressiveness. We had the park virtually to ourselves, 23 square miles of ruins, hiking trails, and jungle wildlife.

View from atop a Temple IV

A near-perfect rendition of my parents on vacation--in this particular moment we had spotted a toucan nest with babies and a proud mama in a hole in the trunk of a tree near the temples

The Grand Plaza...

After flying back south from the Peten jungle, we spent three days in Antigua, the old capital. I've had mixed feelings about the little town ever since I got down here--Semana Santa (see previous post) was incredible, but generally when I'm there, between enjoying the relief of safety and its colorful cuteness, I spend a lot of time resenting the too-touristy bustle of vendors and myriad bars that make you wonder if you just tripped onto a college campus in the states. However, much to my delight, fully embracing the tourist persona makes Antigua a total joy. If you have plans to visit (and aren't on a backpacker's hostel-ready budget) treat yourself and stay at the Cloister. I'm not one to care where I crash while traveling, but I swear, this place is a total dream. It's a small B&B ideally located under the landmark yellow archway a block from the central plaza, complete with a gorgeous garden courtyard, wonderful staff, flawlessly outfitted rooms, and delicious food. I hate to get Lonely Planet on you here (or worse but perhaps more fitting, Travel and Leisure) but really, this hotel was heavenly. Besides thoroughly enjoying our accomodations, activities included textile shopping, climbing active volcano Pacaya (my parents are so cool), and strolling the cobblestone streets to pop in and out of art galleries, very old churches, and european style sidewalk cafes.

Dad braves the volcano

Finally, we made our way to Lake Atitlan, which has quickly become one of my favorite locations on Earth (of those few that I've seen so far), no kidding. Tzutijil Maya, an indigenous group that live largely in the Atitlan area call it the Mother Lake, the world's umbilicus, the center and life source of the earth.

The lake’s periphery is decorated by volcanoes and villages, each of the latter with its own characteristics, many with varying indigenous influences. We stayed at my favorite spot in the village of San Marcos de la Laguna. San Marcos is a beautiful underdeveloped haven right on the shore, littered with organic vegetable gardens, yoga/massage studios and even an authentic Buddhist temple for meditation. When it comes to pace of life it has a lethal (or heavenly, depending on what you’re looking for in a vacation) combination of hippie chillax with classic ‘Guatemalan time’ (ie. everything gets going at least an hour later than planned). Anecdote: we were headed for dinner one night to find that the restaurant we had picked out was closed. As we turned around to walk back in search of alternatives, an elderly Keqchikel Maya woman comes running toward us, “No, no se van! Ya estamos abierta, pase adelante!” (Don’t leave! We’re open, please, come in, welcome!) She wouldn’t take no for an answer even though the place was clearly shut down, proceeded to unlock the doors, turn on the lights, fire up the stove, and cook us a delicious meal while we sat waiting.

Markets in Guatemala are not few nor far between and beautiful handmade textiles-for-sale abound wherever you go. Yet, everyone (gringos and Guatemalans, market enthusiasts and critics alike) says Chichicastenango, Guatemala's most famous market, is truly unique and a must-see, so we fit it in during out time at the lake. It didn't disappoint--a bustling, chaotic, colorful vibrant maze of stalls, Chichi overflows with tapestries, fruits, vegetables, livestock, and flowers; hustlers hollering, infants crying, musical instruments playing; and the strong, distinct scent of market—anyone who’s spent time in Latin America knows what I’m talking about—it’s a mix of raw meat, herbs, tallow candles and corn tortillas on the griddle.

Super-colorful Chichi...

We then moved on to a new hotel in a village down the shore from San Marcos, a place called Casa del Mundo--also raved about, also whose praise is very well-founded. It's a hotel built right into the cliffs with clear views of various volcanoes and other villages on opposite sides of the lake. Swimming and hiking here turn from common activities to ethereal experiences, and the views from the rooms are spectacular. So ended a great trip--a much needed dose of home for me, and a welcome encounter with some little-known gems of central america for my parents.

Lake Atitlan from Casa del Mundo...